A hole-in-the-wall taqueria is among the first restaurants in Mexico to be awarded a star by the Michelin Guide — an accomplishment its owner credits to “love and effort.”
El Califa de Leon is one of 18 restaurants given either one or two stars in the inaugural Michelin Guide Mexico unveiled on Tuesday.
The longstanding family business specializes in just four types of tacos and has room for only a few customers at a time in Mexico City’s San Rafael District.
Photo: AFP
“This taqueria may be bare bones with just enough room for a handful of diners to stand at the counter, but its creation, the Gaonera taco, is exceptional,” the Michelin Guide said on its Web site.
“Thinly sliced beef filet is expertly cooked to order, seasoned with only salt and a squeeze of lime. At the same time, a second cook prepares the excellent corn tortillas alongside. The resulting combination is elemental and pure,” it said.
The Gaonera — which costs a little over US$4 — was created in honor of the celebrated Mexican bullfighter Rodolfo Gaona, whose nickname in the ring was “El Califa de Leon.”
Photo: AFP
The restaurant was founded more than 50 years ago by the parents of current owner Mario Hernandez.
“My father said: ‘Do you want me to tell you the secret of the meat?’ There is no secret,” only “love and effort,” the 66-year-old said outside, his voice full of emotion.
Hernandez said his father taught him to always take care of quality, customer service and prices, because “life is a wheel of fortune with high times and low times.”
On Wednesday, the usual office workers and other regulars were outnumbered by dozens of journalists and gastronomy experts attracted by the Michelin star.
The tacos “are really delicious,” 19-year-old gastronomy student Hector Lancastre said, adding that the international recognition was “well deserved.”
Two more upmarket Mexico City restaurants were each awarded two stars.
Michelin praised Quintonil for “an enticing melding of excellent local product, impressive execution and great creativity to produce refined compositions” and Pujol for a place where “tradition and invention go hand-in-hand in the likes of scallop ceviche with egg salad or grilled Baja coast rockfish with butternut squash puree and sherry foam.”
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