Thu, Oct 05, 2023 page5

• Fukushima sake brewer warms fishing community

  • AFP, NAMIE, Japan
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  Daisuke Suzuki is helping by doing what he does best as life tentatively returns to normal for the devastated fishing communities of Japan’s Fukushima Prefecture: making sake.

  The toji (brewmaster) and his family were lucky to escape with their lives when a huge earthquake and tsunami devastated the region in March 2011, killing about 18,000 people and knocking out the nearby Fukushima Dai-ichi nuclear power plant.

  In Namie, the disaster obliterated the old port of Ukedo and its local fishing industry, as well as the Iwaki Kotobuki sake brewery that Suzuki’s family has owned for five generations.

  

  Daisuke Suzuki stands behind a table of bottles of Japanese sake at his brewery in Namie, Japan, on Sept. 1. Warning: excessive consumption of alcohol can damage your health.

  Photo: AFP

  For two centuries at least it had made the rice wine that revived many a fishers’ spirits after returning to port from the capricious Pacific Ocean with a hold brimming with fish.

  They would drink cups of Iwaki Kotobuki sake over white-meat sashimi of flounder and bass, delicacies from the Fukushima coast.

  “The sake was always there, just like the fish,” said one taciturn local fisherman, who did not want to be identified. “That is the way it has been here since my childhood.”

  

  Japanese sake master Daisuke Suzuki sorts rice at his brewery in Namie, Japan, on Sept. 1.

  Photo: AFP

  With radiation levels dangerously high, Suzuki and others were not allowed return and look for lost neighbors until a year after the catastrophe.

  “We lost the land that gave us our livelihood, and people disappeared from the town,” the 50-year-old said, next to where his brewery once stood.

  People are banned from living in the coastal area where he used to work, not because of the radiation, but because of the high tsunami risk.

  “I had nothing left and couldn’t imagine how I could start making sake again,” he said.

  Then, a month after the disaster, came a phone call out of the blue from a research laboratory.

  It still kept Iwaki Kotobuki’s yeast starter, the all-important shubo that is crucial to a sake’s taste.

  Suzuki was able to resume his trade at his new brewery far from Ukedo in Yamagata Prefecture on the other side of Honshu island.

  With sake-brewing being tricky, depending on water quality, the rice and myriad other factors, it took him a long time to get the taste exactly right.

  “Over centuries, my ancestors had worked to create the flavor of the Iwaki Kotobuki sake to suit to fish,” he said.

  Two years ago, the government gave the all-clear for the sale of fish from the Fukushima region to resume.

  The fishers needed something to drink, so Suzuki built a new sake plant in Namie.

  The local fishing industry has slowly recovered, although in August China banned seafood imports from Japan after its neighbor began releasing treated wastewater from the nuclear plant, dealing another blow to Fukushima’s fishing communities.

  To help, this year he introduced a sake called “Gyoshu [fish type] Mariage,” designed for pairing with eight different kinds of Fukushima seafood, such as flounder, surf clam and Japanese mitten crab.

  “We analyzed the seafood’s five aspects of taste — sweetness, saltiness, acidity, bitterness and savoriness — and used AI [artificial intelligence] to design the sake each for the best pairing,” he said.

  Yasushi Niitsuma, 64, an izakaya pub owner near the port, recalled how local fishers and residents enjoyed drinking Iwaki Kotobuki before 2011.

  “The restart of the sake brewery is the town’s pride,” said Niitsuma, who himself was forced to leave the area for years before returning.

  “The sake is the tradition of the town. Daisuke helped the tradition continue,” he said. “And it encourages fishermen to continue fishing.”
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