Every year in Japan people are hospitalized after eating pufferfish; sometimes the result is fatal. However, despite apparent dangers, strict rules on serving the toxic delicacy in Tokyo are to be relaxed.
Aficionados say the tingle that the meat of the pufferfish leaves on your lips — caused by the potent neurotoxin it contains — is part of the appeal. They are undeterred by the fact that the numbness tetrodotoxin creates can progress to paralysis and breathing problems, or that, according to the US Food and Drug Administration, consumption can prove fatal within four to six hours and “the victim, although completely paralyzed, may be conscious and in some cases completely lucid until shortly before death.”
Diners at Shigekazu Suzuki’s restaurant, however, can be sure they are in no danger when they select their pufferfish — an ugly and, to the untutored eye, rather unappetizing looking creature — from a tank near the kitchen.
Photo: AFP
Suzuki is one of an exclusive coterie of Tokyo chefs who have undergone special training and licensing that allows them to serve the potentially fatal fish, known as fugu in Japan.
“It’s not easy for non-licensed people to clean fugu,” Suzuki said at his branch of the Torafugu-tei chain in up-market Ginza, as he stripped the toxic internal organs from the freshly killed fish with his razor-sharp knife.
“I have not eaten these bits because I’m scared,” he said, gripping the light yellow ovary — one of the most poisonous parts of the fish — and throwing it into a locked metal pot.
According to Suzuki, it takes about five years to pass the fugu license exam, which includes paper and practical tests on how to distinguish poisonous parts from others.
Stringent regulations are often credited with the low level of fatalities, but reports of fishermen dying after eating their own inexpertly prepared catch continue to surface.
And thrill-seeking diners sometimes ask to be served the banned internal organs. Occasionally, a chef will oblige.
In December last year, the Tokyo government revoked the license for a chef at a Michelin two-star restaurant after he had served the fish’s liver to a diner who asked for it. She recovered after a few days in hospital.
“Some people really want to try the dangerous parts because they think it might be really good,” said Mahiro Shin, a 33-year-old customer at Torafugu-tei.
“And sometimes some people get sick, but most people like us don’t take such risks,” he said.
A set meal of fugu hot pot at Torafugu-tei costs roughly ￥5,000 (US$63), but prices in some of the more exclusive restaurants in notoriously pricey Tokyo can rise to tens of thousands of yen.
However, the premium the seasonal delicacy attracts is easily justified, diner Yohei Watanabe said.
“It is a bit more expensive than regular fish, but it’s definitely worth it,” he said.
According to Japan’s health and welfare ministry, 17 people fell ill after eating fugu last year. One of them died.
Under the present system, restaurants in the Tokyo Metropolitan area, home to some 13 million people, can only serve fugu if they have a specially trained chef working on site.
However, in a move that surprised some observers, the authorities in the capital earlier this year announced plans to relax the rules.
From October eateries will be allowed to buy in ready prepared fugu — packaged or frozen, for example — provided it came from a licensed chef.
Unprepared fugu will continue to be banned from menus at restaurants without licensed personnel.
The rule change is more of a technicality to catch up with current practice, the authorities argue.
Tokyo consumers have long bought fugu meat from other areas of the country via the Internet, most notably from the southern Kyushu region known for its food.
“We have concluded that the revision of the regulation won’t lead to any chances of triggering fugu poisoning,” a Tokyo Metropolitan government official said.
Suzuki said he was not worried about competition when the new rules come into force.
“Due to the deregulation, more restaurants can serve fugu so that more customers can enjoy it and then will be properly aware of the culture of eating fugu,” the 44-year-old said.
“We licensed chefs will continue taking care of it properly,” he added.
‘EYE FOR AN EYE’: Two of the men were shot by a male relative of the victims, whose families turned down the opportunity to offer them amnesty, the Supreme Court said Four men were yesterday publicly executed in Afghanistan, the Supreme Court said, the highest number of executions to be carried out in one day since the Taliban’s return to power. The executions in three separate provinces brought to 10 the number of men publicly put to death since 2021, according to an Agence France-Presse tally. Public executions were common during the Taliban’s first rule from 1996 to 2001, with most of them carried out publicly in sports stadiums. Two men were shot around six or seven times by a male relative of the victims in front of spectators in Qala-i-Naw, the center
Incumbent Ecuadoran President Daniel Noboa on Sunday claimed a runaway victory in the nation’s presidential election, after voters endorsed the young leader’s “iron fist” approach to rampant cartel violence. With more than 90 percent of the votes counted, the National Election Council said Noboa had an unassailable 12-point lead over his leftist rival Luisa Gonzalez. Official results showed Noboa with 56 percent of the vote, against Gonzalez’s 44 percent — a far bigger winning margin than expected after a virtual tie in the first round. Speaking to jubilant supporters in his hometown of Olon, the 37-year-old president claimed a “historic victory.” “A huge hug
Canadian Prime Minister Mark Carney is leaning into his banking background as his country fights a trade war with the US, but his financial ties have also made him a target for conspiracy theories. Incorporating tropes familiar to followers of the far-right QAnon movement, conspiratorial social media posts about the Liberal leader have surged ahead of the country’s April 28 election. Posts range from false claims he recited a “satanic chant” at a campaign event to artificial intelligence (AI)-generated images of him in a pool with convicted sex offender Jeffrey Epstein. “He’s the ideal person to be targeted here, for sure, due to
DISPUTE: Beijing seeks global support against Trump’s tariffs, but many governments remain hesitant to align, including India, ASEAN countries and Australia China is reaching out to other nations as the US layers on more tariffs, in what appears to be an attempt by Beijing to form a united front to compel Washington to retreat. Days into the effort, it is meeting only partial success from countries unwilling to ally with the main target of US President Donald Trump’s trade war. Facing the cratering of global markets, Trump on Wednesday backed off his tariffs on most nations for 90 days, saying countries were lining up to negotiate more favorable conditions. China has refused to seek talks, saying the US was insincere and that it
RSS