During the Japanese colonial era, remote mountain villages were almost exclusively populated by indigenous residents. Deep in the mountains of Chiayi County, however, was a settlement of Hakka families who braved the harsh living conditions and relative isolation to eke out a living processing camphor. As the industry declined, the village’s homes and offices were abandoned one by one, leaving us with a glimpse of a lifestyle that no longer exists.
Even today, it takes between four and six hours to walk in to Baisyue Village (白雪村), and the village is so far up in the Chiayi mountains that it’s actually closer to the Pacific than it is to the west coast. The easiest access is from the 99K mark on the Alishan Highway (Route 18), where there is a sign for the Lulinshan Major Wildlife Habitat (鹿林山野生動物重要棲息環境) and room for parking on the south side of the road. This location, known as Yushankou (玉山口) and labeled as such on Google Maps, was the trailhead for Yushan (Jade Mountain) for years. The ribbons on the left here heading uphill mark this old trail.
WALKING IN
Photo: Tyler Cottenie
Two wide, flat paths leave from the Yushankou parking area, both of which are old branch lines of the Alishan logging railway and can be used to access the village. The original footpath to the village used by residents was somewhere in the middle of these, but it has been damaged beyond repair by the forces of nature. The safest way to reach the village now is via the path on the right, along the old Siashan Branch Line (霞山支線).
This old railbed is not maintained, so there is plenty of damage to the railbed to be stepped over or around, but the trail is overall quite flat. After about three hours, the path reaches a wide, flat area that now regularly serves as a campground for hikers. There is plenty of space for tents, and the cedar forest offers partial shade and soft ground for camping.
This idyllic spot is the perfect base from which to explore the village, which is about a five-hour round trip from here. If you arrive early enough, it can be done the same day, but an early start the next morning also works. Alternatively, you can carry your camping gear all the way down to the village and overnight there.
Photo: Tyler Cottenie
To reach the village, do not follow the flat trail that continues southeastward; instead take the path going uphill to the east. After passing over this summit, continue downhill until you reach the village, 800 meters lower than the summit. More and more hikers are exploring this area, so the trail is getting easier to follow, but an offline map on your phone should still be considered an essential tool.
A VILLAGE FROZEN IN TIME
When you emerge from the descent, the first large building you’ll see is the old village administration office and public health center. About 25 ping in size, of wooden construction on a brick base with a corrugated steel roof and glass windows, this is the photogenic showpiece of the village. It has just the right amount of dilapidation to arouse a haunting nostalgia, while remaining intact enough for visitors to safely walk around and understand its original purpose.
Photo: Tyler Cottenie
By the 1970s most of the village’s residents had packed up and moved on, leaving their homes to fall into ruins. In 1973, Baisyue Village ceased to exist as a distinct administrative unit. Once home to over 100 households, the village saw its last resident move out in 1995.
Still, a few of these Hakka people continued to maintain their homes after moving away. The most intact of these belong to the Liu and Hsu families, immediately north of the village office, and the Kuo family, to the northwest of the office. Spring couplets hang by the doors, and clothes are strewn about on the sleeping platforms. In the kitchen where, not that long ago, the residents had their last ever meal in Baisyue Village, one table still has a bright pink floral tablecloth in place and the pots and pans still hang on the walls, awaiting their next use.
When I first visited the village in 2021, one of the Kuo houses still had its original door plate in place, which declared the house to be in Wufeng Township (吳鳳鄉). This was the name for Alishan Township before 1989, when it was changed due to protests from indigenous people at the paternalistic colonial overtones of the name Wufeng. It was probably the only Wufeng door plate still hanging in Chiayi, but by 2022 it had unfortunately disappeared. The following year, a door plate with identical markings mysteriously reappeared, though it is only a modern reproduction. One can only hope the original is in the hands of the Kuo family.
Photo: Tyler Cottenie
The village’s original purpose was to serve as a base for camphor processing operations. The large pans used for boiling water can still be seen throughout the village. Keep an eye out for something that looks like a cooking wok, but nearly a meter in diameter. After the decline of camphor, economic activity here included reforestation projects and the harvesting of aiyu figs. Look carefully around the large trees in the village and you may see the green spotted aiyu fig growing on the vines that wrap around their trunks.
WALKING OUT
Before Typhoon Morakot in 2009, the old footpath leading directly back to the parking area on the Alishan Highway was still intact. Unfortunately, it was wiped out beyond recognition in too many places and is no longer used. This path made a nice, steady ascent all the way up, passing over the only major river in the way with a suspension bridge installed in 1960, just before the mass exodus from the village began. The safest way out now is to go back the same way you came in.
Photo: Tyler Cottenie
Some hikers who don’t want to do an out-and-back trip along the longer, safer route opt to make a loop instead. This route is entirely unmarked and must be navigated with reference to a topographical map. From the village, descend to the river and then turn left and start following it upstream. This is not an easy walk, as there are deep pools and large boulders in the way. Detours out of the streambed and back down again may be necessary.
At a T-junction in the river, heavy packs can be dropped and a half-hour walk up the left fork will get you to the site of the old suspension bridge. With only about 10 percent of its boards remaining and the crumbling supports resembling old Styrofoam more than concrete, it’s hard to believe there are records of people using this bridge as recently as 2005.
After admiring this relic of the village’s dying days, head back to the T-junction and take the right fork upstream for two or three minutes until you get past the cliffs to a spot where it’s possible to climb out of the streambed on the left side. From there it’s a two or three-hour walk straight up the ridge until you reach the Shihshan Branch Line (石山支線) railbed, several meters wide. Turn left and walk 0.6 km to arrive back at the parking area on Route 18.
Photo: Tyler Cottenie
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During the Japanese colonial era, remote mountain villages were almost exclusively populated by indigenous residents. Deep in the mountains of Chiayi County, however, was a settlement of Hakka families who braved the harsh living conditions and relative isolation to eke out a living processing camphor. As the industry declined, the village’s homes and offices were abandoned one by one, leaving us with a glimpse of a lifestyle that no longer exists. Even today, it takes between four and six hours to walk in to Baisyue Village (白雪村), and the village is so far up in the Chiayi mountains that it’s actually
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