Word of mouth spreads fast in this city. Why do I keep hearing about Pizza Bear? Well, these guys take “house-made” and “made with love” to a whole new level, and their Detroit-style square pizza pies, with a chewy sourdough base, cheesy crispy sides and creative flavor combinations, are well worth talking about.
Pizza Bear’s charm starts with owner Chris Foste, a midwestern US native who took his beer-brewing expertise from Illinois and Shanghai and applied it to sourdough starters and pepperoni fermentation here in Taipei. Bar the imported cheese and tomatoes, everything from the sausage to the ranch dressing is made in-house.
Better known as “Beard Bear” (鬍子熊), Foste’s branding centers a cute smiling teddy bear-like caricature of himself, and stepping into Pizza Bear, we feel that rush of hospitality and smiles; customer is king in this casual but comfortable Songshan District (松山) spot.
Photo: Hollie Younger
Pizza Bear serves thin-crust Chicago-style pizza and their classic deep-dish, square Detroit-style pizza. So, what’s the difference? New York pizza: think thin dough, huge triangles, sold by the slice. Chicago Pizza: deep-dish wheels of two-inch-thick dough and melty American cheese. Or is it? Foste says that Chicago deep-dish is actually more of a tourist gimmick or a celebration-only affair for locals. But, in his words, Illinois’ “daily pizza,” sold here, uses a thin, cracker crust, evolved from 1920s taverns that cut square slices to fit onto service napkins. And Detroit? Michigan’s offering features a thick, sourdough base that’s chewy in the center but with a crispy cheese crackling surrounding its rectangular periphery. Layers work in reverse: first toppings, then cheese, then the sauce — to keep the dough from getting soggy, but keeping your fingers delightfully messy.
After launching in New Taipei City’s Sindian District (新店) in 2022, Foste opened this second location in June and it’s been packed every weekend.
Although he has no formal training, he says, “I learned everything from my mammy.” Growing up in rural central Illinois, his mother’s straight-from-scratch, rustic farmhouse cooking stayed with him throughout his career.
Photo: Hollie Younger
The dough? A three-day labor of love, left to rise in individual pans. Pepperoni? Fermented in-house with a Taiwanese-fusion spice blend. Bacon? Three weeks of dry curing, incorporating local flavors inspired by Hakka salty pork belly.
As a craft beer lover, Foste brings the idea of a “flight” of beers to his 4 Square Pizza Flight, where diners can combine any four flavors to make a whole pie. Foste explains that as a chef, he’s always fighting flavor fatigue — and this is the cure.
First up, the bestseller pepperoni (NT$149) is divine. That thick, focaccia-like base is delightfully thick and chewy. The pepperoni discs curl upwards, fatty, spicy and sumptuous.
Photo: Hollie Younger
Next up, my favorite: Chicago sausage with white sauce (NT$149). Fun fact from Foste, Chicago is the only city where sausage is a more popular pizza topping than pepperoni. I understand why; the fennel-laden sausage patty levels out the sweetness of that creamy bechamel sauce with an absurd yet perfect helping of garlic.
The spicy chicken slice (NT$149) packs some heat; the sort that builds but doesn’t overpower. Studying the ingredients of his favorite hot sauce bottles stateside, Foste perfected his own fiery, buffalo-inspired take with hints of pineapple for sweetness.
And finally, the one everyone comes to try, the beef noodle slice (NT$149). This really boggles the mind, recreating the exact Taiwanese flavor profile of cinnamon, star anise and slow-cooked meat. The pizza sauce is reduced broth, topped with tender shredded beef and crispy ramen noodles. To replicate the pickled greens of the original, Foste uses Italian pickled vegetables, Giardiniera, to add that same vinegary, crunchy reprise. This is a must-try, but personally, I’m running back for that Chicago sausage and pepperoni.
Pizza Bear offers fantastic lunch deals, keeping them busy even on a weekday afternoon, with combos of a slice, a chewy cookie and his own-recipe cream soda. But evenings? The place is bumping, offering locally brewed craft beer and highball cocktails. Watch out for the Thursday chef’s special and upcoming happy hour deals.
Foste said it himself, “What kind of pizza restaurant takes reservations?” Well, one that’s homely, truly unique for Taipei and serving pies you’ll dream of, long after the food coma.
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