My sister has three questions she asks men who say they’re feminists. It only takes one “yes” to pass her test, and yet few do. The questions are: if you get married to a woman, would you (and any kids) take her surname? If you had children with a woman, would you step back from your career to be their primary carer? And, simplest of all, would you wear a skirt in public?
The questions are lighthearted, and not intended to truly cut to the heart of feminist issues, but it’s interesting to see how many men sheepishly give three “no” answers nonetheless. Despite much apparent progress towards gender equity, some conventions around how men feel they must act and dress differently to women are stubbornly persistent, from family to fashion.
Baby names and childcare arrangements are inherently fraught topics, but I’m surprised how many men say they’d never even consider wearing a skirt. Twenty years ago, the curator Andrew Bolton noted that “while women enjoy most of the advantages of a man’s wardrobe, men enjoy few of the advantages of a woman’s wardrobe,” and that “nowhere is this asymmetry more apparent than in the taboo surrounding men in skirts”. While a few celebrities, such as Brad Pitt and LA Lakers basketball player Russell Westbrook, have worn skirts to red carpet events, it’s still vanishingly rare to see normal men wear normal skirts day to day.
Photo: AP
VERSATILE, LIGHT AND BREEZY
Blokes, you’re missing out! I began wearing skirts six years ago to see if my sister had a point, and it’s only since then I realized what I’d been missing. Skirts are fantastically versatile: thick, pleated and cosy in the winter, light and breezy for summer. They come in a vast array of shapes and characterful styles, leaving the frigid palette of blacks, blues and browns that dominates most male fashion in the dust. You’ll easily find more panache in the skirts section of M&S than in its entire menswear department.
Men who’ve never worn them will often claim skirts are impractical, but this simply isn’t true. Free from complex gussets, skirts are less likely to tear than trousers, but easier to mend and usually straightforward to adapt. “What about pockets?” you cry. True, there’s a long and sexist history in women’s fashion of clothes made without pockets, but times have changed. Margaret Howell and Vivienne Westwood were putting pockets in their skirts decades ago — and these days you can find skirts with decent pockets in Toast, LK Bennett, Cos and even H&M.
Male fashion is hardly rooted in practicality, either. I love a snappy tie, but it’s hard to think of a more ostentatiously impractical garment than a silk scarf elaborately knotted around the neck. And while blue jeans were once tough workwear, the pairs men buy today are pre-bleached and distressed in factories, with rivets added purely for show. Ultimately, men’s fashion is just as much about aesthetics as women’s, so why not have more fun with it?
Men have tried to normalize skirts before. The Men’s Dress Reform party was an interwar British social movement that campaigned for “healthier and better clothes for men.”
Condemning the strict social conventions and “rather sad colors” dominating male fashion, the group argued that many men were made “hot, uncomfortable, tired and badly tempered” by the clothes they were obliged to wear.
GENDERED FASHION
But in general, it has been women who have fought — often at great cost — to embrace a fuller spectrum of outfits. In the 1930s, California kindergarten teacher Helen Hulick went to jail rather than change out of trousers to testify as a witness in a burglary case.
“You tell the judge I will stand on my rights,” she told the Los Angeles Times. “If he orders me to change into a dress I won’t do it. I like slacks.”
Women have risked social ostracism and even prison to dismantle the rules governing gendered fashion — isn’t it time the rest of us did our bit?
Skirt life isn’t perfect. Even in London I’ve occasionally been spat at in the street and heckled from cars while wearing one. Learning to navigate the infamously changeable sizing system of women’s clothes is tedious too, but the frequent perks of skirts far outweigh the rare downsides.
Dancing in skirts is infinitely more fun than constricting trousers, and it’s hard not to feel buoyed up by the compliments. At a Royal Academy Summer Exhibition dinner, George Passmore of artist duo Gilbert and George told me my white tie and floaty Toast midi skirt combo was “the best menswear of the evening,” which, given Grayson Perry was also in the room, felt pretty good!
Skirts are practical, expressive and, when worn by men, mark a small step towards gender equality no less valuable than women’s long-fought battle to wear trousers. If you need a gateway drug, buy a black kilt on eBay and build your skirt collection from there.
Modern menswear is too often a parade of gloomy conformity, produced by an industry that contemptuously sees male shoppers as predictable and dull. But you don’t have to follow the crowd to be stylish — a man in a skirt signals self-assurance and inner confidence, which are always in fashion.
Sept.16 to Sept. 22 The “anti-communist train” with then-president Chiang Kai-shek’s (蔣介石) face plastered on the engine puffed along the “sugar railway” (糖業鐵路) in May 1955, drawing enthusiastic crowds at 103 stops covering nearly 1,200km. An estimated 1.58 million spectators were treated to propaganda films, plays and received free sugar products. By this time, the state-run Taiwan Sugar Corporation (台糖, Taisugar) had managed to connect the previously separate east-west lines established by Japanese-era sugar factories, allowing the anti-communist train to travel easily from Taichung to Pingtung’s Donggang Township (東港). Last Sunday’s feature (Taiwan in Time: The sugar express) covered the inauguration of the
The corruption cases surrounding former Taipei Mayor and Taiwan People’s Party (TPP) head Ko Wen-je (柯文哲) are just one item in the endless cycle of noise and fuss obscuring Taiwan’s deep and urgent structural and social problems. Even the case itself, as James Baron observed in an excellent piece at the Diplomat last week, is only one manifestation of the greater problem of deep-rooted corruption in land development. Last week the government announced a program to permit 25,000 foreign university students, primarily from the Philippines, Indonesia and Malaysia, to work in Taiwan after graduation for 2-4 years. That number is a
In a stark demonstration of how award-winning breakthroughs can come from the most unlikely directions, researchers have won an Ig Nobel prize for discovering that mammals can breathe through their anuses. After a series of tests on mice, rats and pigs, Japanese scientists found the animals absorb oxygen delivered through the rectum, work that underpins a clinical trial to see whether the procedure can treat respiratory failure. The team is among 10 recognized in this year’s Ig Nobel awards (see below for more), the irreverent accolades given for achievements that “first make people laugh, and then make them think.” They are not
This Qing Dynasty trail takes hikers from renowned hot springs in the East Rift Valley, up to the top of the Coastal Mountain Range, and down to the Pacific Short vacations to eastern Taiwan often require choosing between the Rift Valley with its pineapple fields, rice paddies and broader range of amenities, or the less populated coastal route for its ocean scenery. For those who can’t decide, why not try both? The Antong Traversing Trail (安通越嶺道) provides just such an opportunity. Built 149 years ago, the trail linked up these two formerly isolated parts of the island by crossing over the Coastal Mountain Range. After decades of serving as a convenient path for local Amis, Han settlers, missionaries and smugglers, the trail fell into disuse once modern roadways were built