Best known abroad for its herring, deep-fried croquettes and sickly sweet stroopwafels, it is fair to say the Netherlands has not historically been world-renowned for its cuisine.
Yet for the first time, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Amsterdam has been voted the world’s best on TripAdvisor, further proof the food scene in the country is on the rise, its head chef said.
With the exception of Irish oysters and Japanese wagyu, everything on the menu at the Bougainville restaurant is local Dutch produce, chef Tim Golsteijn said in his bustling kitchen just off Amsterdam’s main square.
Photo: EPA-EFE
“Dutch gastronomy has really been growing in the past 10 years, also because Amsterdam is becoming more and more of a big international city,” said the 36-year-old, who was born and raised in the capital and describes himself as “100 percent Dutchie.”
“You can’t compare it to London or New York or Tokyo, but we are getting there,” he said, as his sous chefs chopped, sliced and stirred ready for another busy dinner service.
In 1958, there were only eight Michelin-starred restaurants in the whole country, but now the Netherlands has forced its way into the world’s top 10, with 123 restaurants boasting a coveted star.
Golsteijn uses North Sea fish, local lobster and Dutch lamb, but also draws on culinary inspiration from around the world — reflecting the Dutch people’s history as seafarers and colonizers.
“From ages ago, we were travelers ... we came back with spices, with coffee, with chocolate. We took that into our food culture,” he said.
However, he is also taking down-to-earth Dutch staples and elevating them to Michelin-star level.
For example, the restaurant serves kibbeling, a humble, deep-fried fish bite snack found in beach cafes around the country, but with sea bass instead of the usual cod belly.
Dutch food has an undeserved reputation, said Isabelle Nelis, who runs culinary tours around Amsterdam.
“Most people think about heavy dishes like pea soup, or the dishes that we do in winter with the mashed potato, cabbage, sausage, but there is so much more,” she said.
It is not just food. Land reclaimed from the sea in the Netherlands contains excellent minerals for wine-producing grapes and there is even a burgeoning champagne industry, Nelis said.
The food scene has changed greatly over the years and is now “alive and buzzing,” she said, helped by the cosmopolitan nature of melting-pot Amsterdam.
Restaurants are serving about 180 different types of cuisine in Amsterdam, she said, adding: “You can eat in every nationality” in the world.
Eric Toner, the owner of the Bougainville, said the quality of the Dutch food scene had changed beyond recognition in the past few decades.
“When I was young, decades ago, it was maybe one or two restaurants with a star in Amsterdam. Maybe six or 10 in the whole of the Netherlands. Now we have 24 or 26 in Amsterdam alone,” he said.
As a child growing up in the Netherlands, “we ate a lot of meatballs, potatoes, vegetables and a lot of gravy over it. That was a normal dinner.”
Yet the next generation has much more refined tastes, helped by a greater choice of cuisines from around the world, he said.
“We have gone from a normal small country when everyone eats a big potato pan on the table ... to an international food culture,” he said.
The award made headlines around the Netherlands, but Toner and Golsteijn acknowledge that the TripAdvisor award, based on customer reviews rather than professional critics, does not catapult their restaurant to the highest echelons of global gastronomy.
For Toner, it is all about meeting customer expectations.
“I was completely flabbergasted. It’s an honor to win every prize,” he said. “But I know also the downside of it. Expectations go up and when I say: ‘What is the best restaurant in the world?’ I would not say my restaurant, I would say a three-star restaurant.”
The restaurant, within a hotel overlooking the Dam Square in Amsterdam, offers a five-course menu priced at 130 euros (US$140).
For Nelis, the Dutch should take more pride in their produce.
“We tend to complain a lot. We complain when it’s raining. When it’s nice weather, we say it’s too hot, and that’s the same with the food,” she said. “We don’t pat ourselves on the back enough.”
‘SWASTICAR’: Tesla CEO Elon Musk’s close association with Donald Trump has prompted opponents to brand him a ‘Nazi’ and resulted in a dramatic drop in sales Demonstrators descended on Tesla Inc dealerships across the US, and in Europe and Canada on Saturday to protest company chief Elon Musk, who has amassed extraordinary power as a top adviser to US President Donald Trump. Waving signs with messages such as “Musk is stealing our money” and “Reclaim our country,” the protests largely took place peacefully following fiery episodes of vandalism on Tesla vehicles, dealerships and other facilities in recent weeks that US officials have denounced as terrorism. Hundreds rallied on Saturday outside the Tesla dealership in Manhattan. Some blasted Musk, the world’s richest man, while others demanded the shuttering of his
Taiwan’s official purchasing managers’ index (PMI) last month rose 0.2 percentage points to 54.2, in a second consecutive month of expansion, thanks to front-loading demand intended to avoid potential US tariff hikes, the Chung-Hua Institution for Economic Research (CIER, 中華經濟研究院) said yesterday. While short-term demand appeared robust, uncertainties rose due to US President Donald Trump’s unpredictable trade policy, CIER president Lien Hsien-ming (連賢明) told a news conference in Taipei. Taiwan’s economy this year would be characterized by high-level fluctuations and the volatility would be wilder than most expect, Lien said Demand for electronics, particularly semiconductors, continues to benefit from US technology giants’ effort
ADVERSARIES: The new list includes 11 entities in China and one in Taiwan, which is a local branch of Chinese cloud computing firm Inspur Group The US added dozens of entities to a trade blacklist on Tuesday, the US Department of Commerce said, in part to disrupt Beijing’s artificial intelligence (AI) and advanced computing capabilities. The action affects 80 entities from countries including China, the United Arab Emirates and Iran, with the commerce department citing their “activities contrary to US national security and foreign policy.” Those added to the “entity list” are restricted from obtaining US items and technologies without government authorization. “We will not allow adversaries to exploit American technology to bolster their own militaries and threaten American lives,” US Secretary of Commerce Howard Lutnick said. The entities
Minister of Finance Chuang Tsui-yun (莊翠雲) yesterday told lawmakers that she “would not speculate,” but a “response plan” has been prepared in case Taiwan is targeted by US President Donald Trump’s reciprocal tariffs, which are to be announced on Wednesday next week. The Trump administration, including US Secretary of the Treasury Scott Bessent, has said that much of the proposed reciprocal tariffs would focus on the 15 countries that have the highest trade surpluses with the US. Bessent has referred to those countries as the “dirty 15,” but has not named them. Last year, Taiwan’s US$73.9 billion trade surplus with the US