Wed, Jun 01, 2005 page4

• `Casual' a hard sell to Japanese officials

  KYOTO IMPERATIVE Tokyo has to cut its greenhouse gas emissions, so air conditioners' temperatures are being set higher. That means men need to dress cooler

  • AP
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  Japan's bureaucratic rank-and-file march in dark jackets and ties to their offices every day, sweating their way through the country's sticky, sweltering summers.

  Starting today, they'll be sweating a little less. In a nationwide campaign to save energy by cutting down on air conditioning, the government has urged public workers to leave their ties and jackets home for the summer.

  That might be an easy order in most countries, but in Japan -- where conformity and tradition are prized -- the effort, dubbed "Cool Biz," has enlisted help from the highest authorities. Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi recently showed up in a newspaper advertisement wearing a half-sleeve shirt with no tie, urging his Cabinet to follow suit.

  

  Mitsukoshi department store's Eiji Utsunomiya thinks over a question about the government's ``Cool Biz'' campaign showing the store's ``Cool Biz'' merchandise in Tokyo on May 25. The government has urged male bureaucrats to leave their ties and jackets home during the summer to save energy costs.

  PHOTO: AP

  "If the ministers are wearing a tie, their subordinates would feel uneasy about not wearing it," he said a few weeks ago. "So the ministers should not wear a tie."

  The Environment Ministry campaign has nothing to do with loosening up stodgy government ministries -- and everything to do with meeting targets under the Kyoto global warming protocol. Tokyo needs to cut so-called greenhouse gas emissions to 6 percent below 1990 levels by 2012.

  To help make the goal, government buildings' air conditioners will be set at a toasty 28?C, the maximum allowed by law. Offices usually keep the temperature at around 25?C. Some private companies are already allowing employees to dress casually for summer. But the government endorsement is expected to help make casual styles widely acceptable.

  The Energy Conservation Center estimates if all offices in Japan increase summer temperatures to 28?C, it could save 310,000kl of oil in one summer.

  To rally support, and to reassure bureaucrats unfamiliar with being laid-back, the ministry has released a manual dressing down -- with hints such as matching the colors of your belt and shoes.

  "We try to explain why just untying your necktie won't do. We show how to achieve an acceptable business look without wearing a tie," said Kentaro Doi, the ministry official in charge of the campaign.

  The ministry is even planning a "Cool Biz Collection" fashion show on Sunday at the 2005 World Expo in Aichi, with top executives -- including Toyota chairman Hiroshi Okuda -- as models.

  The new policy is expected to boost the economy, as the country's 250,000 national bureaucrats retool their monochromatic wardrobes. Economy Minister Heizo Takenaka said the effort could raise consumer spending by at least ?10 billion (US$92.6 million). That rises to ?600 billion if local government and private industry workers are included.

  The effort seems to be having some effect. At a major department store, Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi, men's shirt sales were up 17 percent last month from the same month last year, according to men's section salesman Eiji Utsunomiya.

  The store features shirts with hidden snaps or extra buttons so the collar stays upright without a tie.

  "It was unacceptable 10 years ago. But I think people are ready for new fashion, and society is changing so we are less resistant to change," Utsunomiya said.

  However, judging from the past, success is not guaranteed. In 1979, after the second "oil shock," prime minister Masayoshi Ohira introduced a "save energy look," wearing a half-sleeve suit and tie. It was a failure. A 1994 attempt by prime minister Tsutomu Hata also flopped.

  A salesman, Katsuyuki Ishii, predicted yet another failure.

  "My company has no such plans. I know it is even unpleasant to look at us," he said, gesturing at his jacket and tie. "But it's like a uniform."
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