Having a Michelin is more trouble than it’s worth, says a chef in Catalonia, Spain, who is all too happy to renounce his.
“Total slavery, with enormous stress,” is how Joan Borras describes his plight. His Hostal Sant Salvador in the village of La Vall de Bianya, northeast Spain, won Michelin’s blessing in 2006.
“It’s the wish of all chefs... but you have to remember the price that has to be paid to keep it,” he told the newspaper El Periodico.
PHOTO: AFP
The Spanish edition of the celebrated French guide to Europe’s gastronomical marvels lists six three-star restaurants in Spain, nine two-star establishments, and 109 with a single star.
Having even a single star means forever striving for excellence, but his recent brush with a brain tumour served as a wake up call for Borras. He says now he’d rather ease back on the pressure and enjoy life more.
He said as much in a letter to the Michelin guide — but his gesture is not without precedent.
Three years ago French chef Alain Senderens renounced the three stars Michelin gave to his Lucas Carton restaurant in Paris, saying he no longer cared to be locked into “highly stressful competition.”
(AFP)
西班牙加泰隆尼亞一位廚師非常開心地宣布放棄他的米其林星星。他說，擁有一顆米其林星星所帶來的麻煩，比它的價值還多。
裘安．柏拉斯以「我完全被奴役，承受著極大的壓力」來形容他的處境：他開設在西班牙東北部拉佛德碧安亞村的「聖薩爾瓦多會館」，二ＯＯ六年獲米其林評鑑為一顆星。
他對《加泰隆尼亞報》表示：「這是所有廚師夢寐以求的殊榮…，但別忘了維持這個榮譽所必須付出的代價。」
這本西班牙版的著名法國美食指南介紹了歐洲各種驚奇美食，其中西班牙有六間餐廳獲評為三星級、九間二星級，還有一百零九間是一星級。
即使只得到一顆星的評等，也意味著永不鬆懈追求卓越。但柏拉斯最近發現自己長了腦瘤，那對他來說是個警訊。他說他現在寧願卸下壓力放鬆心情，好好享受生活。
他寫信給米其林指南做了上述說明──但他並不是第一個這麼做的人。
三年前，法國巴黎「盧卡斯卡頓」餐廳的主廚亞藍．山德倫斯就宣布放棄米其林頒給他的三星榮耀，他說他再也不想被困在「高度壓力的競賽」中。
（法新社�翻譯：袁星塵）
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