In search of something slightly exotic, Koledo, which bills itself as serving “innovative Okinawa cuisine,” sounded unusual, particularly its signature dish, a Japanese-style curry sporting Okinawa black sugar as a key ingredient. Okinawa “black sugar” has become popular in the last few years as a substitute for the more highly refined brown sugar because of its supposed health-giving properties. It is believed to decrease the levels of cholesterol in blood and increase resistance to stress. Be that as it may, it also has a rich flavor that can often give a new twist to all kinds of food. Its use in a version of Japanese curry called forth a spirit of adventure that overcame concerns over the rather too extensive menu and the high profile of “budget” lunch specials.
For a small place packed in among the popular eateries off Zhongxiao East Road Section 4 (忠孝東路四段), near the junction with Dunhua South Road Section 1 (敦化南路一段), Koledo emanated a pleasant ambiance with its dark wood interior, colorful cotton prints and various knickknacks arranged on shelves behind the cozy little booths that line a central aisle. With large tankards of Okinawa draft beer for NT$120, and a wide-ranging menu of snacks, from chilled tofu (NT$60) to marinated baby octopus (NT$90), it is not an unpleasant spot to drink and nibble, but if you are there for the food rather than atmosphere, Koledo is something of a disappointment.
The curry set menu (NT$160), which came highly recommended, managed to fail on all counts. It lacked substance, with some pitifully small pieces of meat floating about in the sauce; it lacked flavor, the black sugar failing to come out from under a smothering blanket of generic curry sauce; and it lacked identity, for its side of iceberg leaves and tofu mixed with a sweet vinaigrette and the roasted candied sweet potato totally failed to meld into a coherent whole.
A number of extras can be ordered to add variety to the menu: this is presented as an option, but for anyone with any kind of appetite, it is essential to make this lunch set a filling meal. These extras range from an egg yolk (生玉子, NT$10) to a vegetable patty (NT$75). The latter was insufficiently crisp, and by the time it was served was in severe danger of disintegrating in the curry sauce. It seemed to be made up primarily of potato, with no discernible taste other than that of frying oil.
Side dishes also failed to impress, either in size or quality. The marinated baby octopus comprised a few rather stunted tentacles in a weak, and rather too sweet dressing flavored with osmanthus flowers. The meat was slightly rubbery, and while far from inedible, it was presented in such a dainty portion that one expected a little more in the flavor department.
Cheap business lunch set menus are available for just NT$120, but these too are clearly focused on the bottom line rather than providing anything innovative or exciting for the diner. A marked tendency to drift into Taiwanese lunchbox-style preparation is particularly evident, further diminishing claims to be either specifically Okinawan or particularly innovative.
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