Fri, Aug 13, 2004 page17

• Tourists are wondering: Who let the ghosts out

  The Keelung Ghost Festival includes pageantry, tradition and color. It's a first-class treat for locals and visitors alike

  • By Gavin Phipps / STAFF REPORTER
  • • 
    • 
    • 

  From next Monday the streets, parks and temples of Keelung will be the center of attention as month-long celebrations centering on the Keelung Ghost Festival (基隆中元祭) begin in earnest with the opening of a gate at the city's "Old Venerable," or Ching An Temple (慶安宮).

  Also referred to as the Chicken Coop Ghost Festival (雞籠中元祭), which was taken from the city's original name, the festival encompasses pageantry, tradition and color. Ghost Festival festivities take place at sites throughout Keelung and include street parades, the hanging of sacrificial banners, temple dancing and pole climbing and culminate in late August with the release of thousands of lanterns into the sea.

  

  A scene from a previous year's Keelung Ghost Festival.

  PHOTO: TAIPEI TIMES

  Symbolizing forbearance, charity and filial piety there are two interpretations apropos the Ghost Festival's genesis. According to Taoist beliefs, the festival originated on the birthday of the Chinese guardian of hell. As governor of the underworld, the guardian decreed that all lost souls return to the mortal world, where, for one month, they may once again enjoy worldly pleasures in preparation for their conversion to "The Way," or the Tao (道).

  In contrast to the Taoist interpretation, Buddhists believe that the festival's roots can be traced back to Moginlin, who was a disciple of Buddha Sakyamuni, and his journey to the netherworld to rescue his mother. According to the Buddhist legend, on entering hell Moginlin was forced to offer five fruits and a hundred delicacies in 10 directions to the hungry ghosts in order that his mother be relieved from her suffering.

  "The event is one of the key events in the religious calendar and speaks to the hearts of all Chinese religious practitioners," said Mark Caltonhill, author of Private Prayers and Public Parades. "It strikes a chord with the beliefs of people from three prominent

  religions -- the transmigration of the soul in Buddhism; the relieving of the suffering of souls in the netherworld of Taoism; and the timely sacrifices to one's ancestors of Confucianism."

  Regardless of one's credo, it is generally accepted by all parties that the annual festival is based on the Pudu (普渡), or ritual of universal suffering. Originating in ancient India the ritual's aim is to prepare all lost souls for their final transmigration and set them on the road to their nirvana, wherever and whatever it may be.

  The origins of the Keelung Ghost Festival have more earthly beginnings, however, and can be traced back to the mid-1800s and to what is now called the "Chang-Chuanhow Clash" (漳泉械鬥). In August 1851, rival settlers from the Chang (漳) and Chuan (泉) clans who had moved to the Keelung area from the China's Fujian Province clashed in a bloody confrontation over land and water rights.

  Before either side could retaliate and cause even more suffering the local gentry stepped in, called a truce and set about mediating for the rival clans. Although the melee only lasted a single day scores of clan members from both sides were slain in the bloody altercation and members of both clans decided to hold a joint ceremony at which offerings were made in order that the dead not suffer in the next world.

  Since then the Keelung Ghost Festival, like many others that take place throughout in China and South East Asia, remain staunchly clan based, with 15 of the area's main clans -- which have long since converted to religious associations -- traditionally leading the ceremonies.

  "Ghost month and the various festivals provide an annual outlet for the religious and spiritual inclinations of Taiwan's people," continued the author of the popular English language guide to local religious practices. "These events are further imbued with centuries of cultural, historical and ethnic color, making them focal points of local and clan identity,"

  While colorful and packed with medieval-like flag waving splendor, the opening of the temple gates next Monday is only one of the highlights of the month-long religious festival.

  The festival's most colorful spectacle is reserved for Aug. 29, when the Parade of the Water Lanterns takes to the city's streets. Festival participants and the general public alike form a lantern-packed procession that goes from Keelung to the nearby Chaolin Coastal Park (潮境公園). There, thousands of lanterns are released into the water and in keeping with tradition the souls of the ancestors are sent on their way to nirvana and finally freed from purgatory.

  "If you only have time to catch one festival, this is certainly one of the best," said Caltonhill. "With its combination of religion, food and culture, this is a must-see for residents and visitors alike."
• Most Popular

  • 1

    Uncrewed surface vehicle unveiled

  • 2

    France see off Croatia on penalties

  • 3

    Yaya in Taiwan voluntarily flies to PRC

  • 4

    LA Dodgers show off World Series rings

  • 5

    Taiwanese universities drop 86 degree programs